Boulevard

The Plotniks had not been to Boulevard before last night. Now they know why this is considered one of the best restaurants in the city. This desert you're looking at – – a couple of tiny flans with slices of pear and some strange Japanese cake – – was not the best of it, not by any means. The best was the truffle broth over the piece of glazed black cod. A beet salad lurks in the background. Did we mention the quail?

TGP loves old-line restaurants like these. And no one wears a tie any more except the hosts and the waiters.